It doesn’t get the attention of the Valais or the Lavaux, and perhaps that’s precisely the appeal. The Neuchâtel vineyard is a secret that connoisseurs have kept to themselves for years: just a few hundred hectares clinging to the slopes between the lake and the first ridges of the Jura, producing wines of a finesse that can catch you off guard. Starting with Œil-de-Perdrix, the Pinot Noir rosé that was born here and imitated everywhere.
If you fancy discovering this vineyard beyond what’s written on a label, Neuchâtel is the perfect starting point. And to make the most of it, Hôtel Beaulac welcomes you right on the lakefront, just minutes from the first cellars. Book a night or a weekend, and let the tastings unfold without worrying about the journey home.
A vineyard between lake and mountain
The Neuchâtel vineyard stretches roughly thirty kilometres along the northern shore of the lake, from Vaumarcus to Hauterive. It’s one of the smallest wine regions in Switzerland, but also one of the most distinctive. The combination of chalky soils, generous sunshine amplified by the lake’s reflection, and a moderate altitude creates conditions that few terroirs in western Switzerland can claim.
Two grape varieties reign here. Chasselas, first, which yields dry, mineral whites with an almost saline freshness — ideal as an apéritif or paired with lake fish. Then Pinot Noir, which appears as an elegant red, an unexpected blanc de noirs, and above all as Œil-de-Perdrix, the famous rosé that has carried the canton’s reputation far beyond its borders.
What strikes you when walking through these vines is the human scale of everything. Estates are often family-run, production is modest, and the welcome in the cellars has kept a warmth and simplicity that larger wine regions have sometimes lost. You ring the bell, step inside, taste, and chat with the winemaker. It really is that simple.
From cellar to cellar: exploring the Neuchâtel vineyard
Several villages are well worth a visit, and most lie within fifteen minutes of the city.
Auvernier is perhaps the best known. This small wine village, tucked between the lake and the vines, is home to several respected cellars. Its narrow lanes, traditional vintner houses and proximity to the water make it a natural starting point for a wine walk. You’ll taste excellent Chasselas and some Pinot Noir with real character, often accompanied by a slice of Gruyère or a piece of saucisson.
Cortaillod, a little further west, is the historical birthplace of Œil-de-Perdrix. This is where the delicate rosé first came into being, and several estates in the village continue to produce it with particular care. The setting is beautiful: the vines reach almost to the water’s edge, and on a clear day, the view across to the Bernese Alps is worth the trip alone.
Further along, around Boudry and Colombier, you’ll find other cellars well worth discovering, in a slightly more rolling landscape where vines sit alongside orchards. The atmosphere is quiet, the pace slow, and the wines often surprisingly deep for such a discreet region.
For those who prefer a structured route, the Chemin du Vignoble walking trail crosses the entire Neuchâtel vineyard from village to village. It’s a gentle hike, accessible from spring through to autumn, alternating between hillside paths, hamlet crossings and lake panoramas. You can walk the full route over two days or simply cover one section before heading back down to town.
Œil-de-Perdrix, Non-Filtré and other treasures to taste
The Neuchâtel vineyard is about far more than one or two wines. It holds specialities found nowhere else, and they surprise even seasoned enthusiasts.
Œil-de-Perdrix is, of course, the canton’s ambassador. This rosé, made from Pinot Noir with a short maceration, has a characteristically pale pink hue and a delicate nose of red berries. On the palate, it’s fresh, dry and elegant — as enjoyable on a terrace as at the table, alongside grilled fish or a cheese platter. It’s the ideal companion for a lakeside lunch.
The Non-Filtré is the other local pride. Every year, on the third Wednesday of January, Neuchâtel cellars release their new Chasselas, unfiltered and still slightly cloudy. It’s an event in its own right across the canton, and enthusiasts flock to taste the year’s first cuvées. If you happen to be visiting around that time, it’s an experience not to be missed.
Beyond these two classics, you’ll also discover excellent red Pinot Noirs — full-bodied and fruity — as well as rarer varieties like Pinot Gris or Chardonnay, produced in small batches by a handful of adventurous winemakers. The diversity is genuine, and each cellar has its own personality.
The best way to appreciate it all is to sit down after a tasting. The pairings between Neuchâtel wines and local cuisine are remarkable: a Chasselas with perch fillets, an Œil-de-Perdrix with tartare, a Pinot Noir with a game dish in autumn. These are harmonies you only discover by being here.
Base yourself at the Beaulac and explore the vineyard
The Neuchâtel vineyard lends itself perfectly to a two- or three-day stay. Compact enough to explore largely without a car, yet rich enough to fill several afternoons of tastings, it offers a pace of holiday that larger wine regions don’t always allow.
Hôtel Beaulac, in the heart of Neuchâtel and right on the lake, is the ideal base for this kind of escape. Set off in the morning towards the vines, visit a cellar or two before lunch, return in the late afternoon to take in the view from the Waves rooftop or dine at Le Lake Side with, perhaps, an Œil-de-Perdrix on the menu. The next day, head in a different direction, or simply settle for a quiet brunch facing the lake before heading home.
It’s a stay that appeals to couples, friends, the curious, and anyone who believes a good wine tastes better where it was made.
Fancy discovering the Neuchâtel vineyard from the lakeshore? Book your stay at Hôtel Beaulac and set off to meet the canton’s winemakers. The lake, the vines and a glass of Œil-de-Perdrix are waiting.
→ Book your stay at the Beaulac | Discover Le Lake Side restaurant
